Day three of our Scotland adventure was all about the journey to the Isle of Skye. From the charming streets of Fortrose to the rugged beauty of Skye’s landscapes, this day was filled with local encounters, hearty meals, and breathtaking stops along the way. While Skye is known for its dramatic scenery, the road there is equally captivating—winding through quaint villages, castle viewpoints, and mist-covered glens.

Waking Up in Avoch

Our morning began in Avoch, parked in our camper van right by the water. The gentle lapping of waves and the quiet coastal air made for a peaceful start. After a quick breakfast in the van, we packed up and headed toward nearby Fortrose for our first stops of the day.

Fortrose

Fortrose is a charming coastal town on the Black Isle, just a short drive from Inverness. Known for its historic cathedral ruins, quaint cafes, and stunning views over the Moray Firth, Fortrose offers a perfect blend of history, community, and seaside tranquility.

Bakhoos Bakery – Fortrose

Our first stop was Bakhoos Bakery in Fortrose, where we grabbed a flat white and a pistachio lemon preserve pastry that was easily one of the best bites of the trip. It was here we met Maggie Zerafa and Andrew, a lovely couple—she from Ireland, he from Australia—who have called Scotland home for over 30 years.

They shared stories of skiing in the winter, traveling whenever possible, and their wedding at the iconic Eilean Donan Castle. They were full of travel wisdom and suggested we take the North Road to Skye for its scenic views. They also recommended a lunch stop in Lochcarron Village.

Coorie Company

Next, we popped into the Coorie Company, a cozy lifestyle shop whose name comes from an Irish word meaning “to snuggle” or “cuddle.” The owner, Sarah, told us her husband works on the Isle of Skye and that some friends of hers recently started a kayak and sauna business in the area. The shop was full of charming finds—wool throws, candles, ceramics—and Sarah even gave us suggestions for great saunas along the route.

Fortrose Cathedral

Before leaving town, we wandered through the Fortrose Cathedral ruins. This red sandstone structure, dating back to the 13th century, is steeped in history. While only parts of the walls and arches remain, it’s easy to imagine the grandeur it once had. The peaceful churchyard surrounding it added to the charm.

Lochcarron Village

Lochcarron is a picturesque village stretched along the shores of a long sea loch of the same name, often described as one of the most scenic in the Scottish Highlands. The waterfront is lined with charming houses, independent shops, and cafes, all set against a backdrop of rugged hills.

Old Butcher’s Coffee & Gallery

Our stop in Lochcarron was at the Old Butcher’s Coffee & Gallery, a cozy café housed in a former butcher shop that now doubles as a local art gallery. Inside, the walls are lined with paintings and crafts from Highland artists, giving the space a warm, creative atmosphere. We ordered a latte, tomato basil soup, and a chorizo mozzarella sandwich — the perfect comfort food for a cool Highland afternoon. In a slightly comical twist, Natasa accidentally set off the bathroom alarm, which made for a memorable laugh before we continued our journey.

Eilean Donan Castle

No road trip to Skye is complete without a stop at Eilean Donan Castle. Sitting on a small tidal island where three sea lochs meet, the castle is one of the most photographed spots in Scotland—and for good reason. We didn’t tour the interior this time but took our time exploring the grounds and soaking in the views.

Sligachan Old Bridge

Further along the drive, we came across the Sligachan Old Bridge, sometimes nicknamed the “Harry Potter bridge” for its magical, cinematic setting. With the dramatic Cuillin mountains in the background, it was the perfect place to stretch our legs and snap a few photos.

The Cuillin

Driving through the Cuillin mountain range was like entering another world—sharp peaks, rolling valleys, and moody skies. The landscapes seemed to shift every few minutes, making it impossible not to pull over for photos.

Portree

Portree is the largest town on the Isle of Skye, a colorful harbor village surrounded by dramatic hills and cliffs. Its pastel-painted buildings line the waterfront, creating a postcard-perfect view, while narrow streets wind uphill past cozy shops, cafes, and restaurants. As the main hub for Skye, Portree is always buzzing with travelers, making it both lively and a bit crowded during peak hours.

The Lower Deck Restaurant

After arriving in Portree, we quickly discovered that most restaurants either required a reservation or had a 50-minute wait. Luckily, we stumbled upon The Lower Deck, a small, welcoming spot right on the harbor. We enjoyed a haddock tart and perfectly seared scallops while watching the last light fade over the bay. It was a satisfying find after a long day of travel.

Bracken Hide

Our accommodation for the night was Bracken Hide, a pod-style stay tucked into the hillside with a view over the harbor. The place itself was cozy, but it felt a bit worn in spots. We were especially disappointed to find that the sauna and cold plunge — the main reasons we booked after sleeping in the car the night before — were closed. To top it off, our pod’s drain was clogged. While it wasn’t quite the relaxing retreat we had envisioned, it still offered a warm place to rest before the next day’s adventures.

Getting to Isle of Sky - Scotland (Day 3)